Ensenada Restaurateurs Honored
text by connie ellig; photos by david hopps

Born in Chihuahua, Mexico, Gabriel Lee and two partners established a small Chinese restaurant known as ABC on Ensenada’s Av. Ruiz in 1963. After a fire in 1977, the restaurant re-opened under the name Muy Lam (meaning “Apricot Grove”). Its flavorful Cantonese cuisine proved to be very popular with both residents and tourists, and in 1987, Muy Lam moved to its current, expanded premises on Av. Reforma & Calle Diamante. To correspond with the modern restaurant trend of Chinese buffets, Gabriel changed the name of his establishment to Fa Yuan (meaning “Flower Garden”) in 2004 and began offering a daily Chinese buffet with over 65 selections in addition to his regular extensive menu of seafood, meat, poultry and vegetable dishes.

Using the freshest of ingredients, Chef Gabriel Lee and his culinary team capture the complex simplicity that is the essence of great Cantonese style cooking. As the leader in his specialty for many years, Gabriel has schooled an entire generation of cooks in the art of Chinese cuisine. In honor of his distinguished service, Gabriel became the ninth recipient of the Virginia “Doña Pepita” Geffroy Pozo Medal of Gastronomic Merit. Presented every two years, this award is named after the late Virginia Geffroy Pozo, the acknowledged Pioneer of Culinary Art & Gastronomy in Ensenada.

Born in 1910 in Santa Rosalía, B.C.S., Virginia Geffroy was educated in France where she studied at Le Cordon Bleu Paris. After eighteen years abroad and marriage to French artist Jacques Bitterlin, Virginia (also known as “Pepita”) returned to her Mexican birthplace and eventually moved to Ensenada, where she established Restaurant El Rey Sol in 1947. Through the years, Doña Pepita was a driving force in the development of the restaurant industry of this region, and upon her death in 1989, left behind a remarkable legacy of accomplishments. Past recipients of her Medal of Gastronomic Merit include Arturo Nomura, Mario Ochoa, Alberto Mancillas, Gilberto Osuna, Ramón Bernal, Jean-Loup Bitterlin, Ramón Inzunza and Carlos Gallegos.

Arturo Nomura was again honored on the evening of March 3, this time as a recipient of the “Image of Ensenada” Restaurateur Business Merit Award in recognition of his contribution to the food service industry, which in turn has enhanced Ensenada’s image as a city. In 1989, Arturo introduced a variety of teriyaki-based dishes at a small restaurant on the corner of Calle Delante in the port of Ensenada. He never dreamed that six years later, La Cochinita Japanese Food Factory would become a chain of 70 franchise restaurants in the republic of Mexico. In fact, the Mexican Association of Franchises awarded La Cochinita the Telmex Award for being one of the fastest growing business chains during the year 2000. With great vision and success, Arturo Nomura created an appealing chain of restaurants where diners can relax in an informal ambience and always rely on flavorful food, abundant portions and economical prices.

Both awards from CANIRAC were presented in memory of Martha Ramírez Nuñez, the Ensenada chamber’s office manager for more than twenty years, who unexpectedly succumbed to cancer in June 2005. As a result of her steadfast dedication, enthusiasm and organizational abilities, Ensenada-San Quintín CANIRAC was able to grow and flourish.

In addition to awards presentations, the 2006-2008 Board of Directors of Ensenada-San Quintín CANIRAC was sworn into office: Alejandro Barboza (president), Edgar Ochoa (vice president), Luis Alonso Tirado (secretary), Arturo Nomura (treasurer), and advisors Jesús García, Eduardo Escobedo and Leonardo González. A handsome plaque was presented to the outgoing president, César Meza, before CANIRAC members and guests savored the delectable gourmet dinner prepared by Restaurant Antares of Hotel Coral & Marina which was accompanied by the fine wines of L.A. Cetto and the refreshing fruit tequila liqueurs of Hacienda Don Procopio.

During 2006, the Ensenada-San Quintín Chamber of Restaurants will present its annual array of enticing food-oriented events including Ensenada’s Tuna Festival (May 14); Taco, Tamal & Mole Festival (May 20 in conjunction with CANACINTRA); Mushroom Festival (June 11); Tomato & L.A. Cetto Wine Festival (July 23); International Seafood Fair (September 10); Dessert Contest (December 3); and San Quintín “Mar y Tierra” Gastronomic Festival (usually in October or November). For additional information about CANIRAC, its events and/or training courses for restaurant personnel, contact bilingual office manager Mercedes Meza in Ensenada at (646)174-0448; e-mail
 

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